Falling in Love with Prague
Day 207 – Prague, Czech Republic – 10:52 AM
Country number eleven on my round-the-world journey was the Czech Republic. I arrived in the capital city of Prague last Monday afternoon after I successfully navigated buses and trains from Wiesbaden, Germany. I pulled into the Prague Bus Terminal shortly after 4pm. I researched hostels prior to arriving and hailed a cab across the Vltava River to Arpacay Backpackers.
During the short ride I was struck by the architecture that sprawled before me. Large stone buildings of various colors stretched towards the sky. Antique trams puttered along shuttling locals and foreigners to various destinations. Grey clouds hung over the city and signaled an approaching rainstorm. I was far from surprised as seven of my first ten days in Europe were accompanied by rain.
I arrived at my destination and hauled my bags from the trunk of the cream colored Mercedes taxi cab. I walked up a flight of stairs and into reception. I informed the staff member I was in search of a bed for two nights. I was in luck, a spot in a four-person room was available for $15.68USD. She handed me the key and I proceeded up four flights of stairs into the attic room.
I walked through the wooden door and the room was empty save for four beds spread out across the room. I had the room to myself…for the time being. The room’s location in the attic meant temperatures ran warm. I found a window on the pitched roof and pushed it open. The bottom pushed out and the top remained hinged to the roof forming a small triangle to let in a bit of fresh air. I peaked my head through the small opening and looked around. Straight ahead I spotted the Old Royal Palace, an attraction at the Prague Castle. To my right the skyline of Prague stretched out before me. Spires and steeples pierced the sky while rust colored roofs faded into the distance. I sat down on my bed anxious to explore the city that avoided serious aerial bombardments during World War II.
Over my three days I managed to experience many of the attractions I gazed upon that first afternoon from the window in my room. I crossed the famed, and tourist clogged Charles Bridge a number of times during my stay. Construction on the bridge began in the mid 14th century under the supervision of King Charles IV. It took nearly fifty years to complete and was originally known as the Stone Bridge or Prague Bridge. Until 1841, the Charles Bridge, as it came to be known in the mid-19th century, was the lone crossing over the Vltava River. As a result, Prague became an important city along east and west trade routes through Europe. The sides of the bridge are lined with thirty statues originally built during the dawn of the 18th century. I could not help but join in the massive crowds that walked the bridge with a camera raised to their eye.
From the apex of the Charles Bridge, I spotted the spires of Saint Vitus Cathedral, one of four churches that sit within the Prague Castle. I set out from Arpacay Backpackers on Day 2 and hoped to explore the cathedral and other structures that encompass the castle. I arrived outside the ticket booth at 9am and was shocked at the crowds that already gathered. I purchased an entrance ticket for $10.31USD and oriented myself in the large courtyard.
I walked into Saint Vitus Cathedral, the seat of the archbishop of Prague, and was taken aback by its size. I later read the cathedrals dimensions are 406 feet by 196 feet and its main tower rises 316 feet into the air. Dark, wooden pews gave way to a large alter that drew my eye from the large colorful stained glass windows that appeared above it. Small chapels dedicated to Bohemain Kings and Holy Roman Emperors lined its interior walls and added to the cathedral’s magnificence.
Construction on Saint Vitus Cathedral began in 1344 after the Bishop of Prague was elevated to Archbishop. Its chief supporter, Charles IV, who soon after was declared a Holy Roman Emperor, wanted the new cathedral to be a family crypt and house precious relics from the empire. Multiple construction supervisors and future wars led to slow progress on Charles IV’s dream. It was not until 1929, nearly 600 years after commencing, that construction on Saint Vitus Cathedral was completed.
Another popular attraction within the castle grounds is the Royal Palace. When I purchased my ticket, the saleswoman informed me the Czech royal jewels were on display for the first time in a number of years. As a result, many tourists and Czechs alike traveled to Prague for the rare chance to view the precious stones. I was warned about potentially long queues that may limit my chances of entering the palace. With that in mind I saved the palace for last. If I got inside and saw the jewels, excellent; if not, it wasn’t the end of the world. I proceeded towards the palace grounds and a line had formed along the paved walkway that weaves through the finely manicured lawns. I estimated a couple hundred people were in front of me. I decided there was more to explore and turned around.
Over the course of my days in Prague I visited a number of museums. The first was a private collection of Apple products that were accumulated over the years. The two-floor showcase held a number of interesting items including the signed contracts by Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak and Ronald Wayne when Wayne sold his stake in the company. Also on display were a pair of the signature jeans, black turtle neck and New Balance running shoes that Steve Jobs wore during the unveiling of new Apple products. Small glass cases held every Apple product ever produced. The old Apple II computer that I remember from my early childhood was on display in all its glory. In the same glass case sat the joystick controller I used to maneuver that small, green, pixelated frog through what seemed like impenetrable lanes of traffic. Ohhh, the memories!!
On my final day in Prague I decided to tour the KGB museum not far from my hostel. I paid the $14 USD entry fee. A guide, who I assume was former KGB based on his mannerisms, led a group of five including myself through the single floor gallery. Former KGB medals, uniforms and spy equipment were on display. Our guide, filled with an abundance of passion and knowledge about his homeland, walked us through the history of the KGB and how the agency transformed over the years.
My final museum was more pub than museum: The Prague Beer Museum. To be honest, there is supposedly a small museum in the basement of the building but I stayed on the main floor and sampled two beers on tap. The bar carried the same “old city” vibe that emanated from other pieces of architecture in the city. The dimmed lighting and wood paneled walls made me feel I was back in the days of the Cold War. Back in the days when my “guide” from the KGB Museum was more than a “guide” and ran counter-espianoge tactics to uncover America’s clandestine operations in the USSR. Maybe I’ve watched one to many spy movies over the years?
* Additional photographs from my time in Prague are now viewable within the Europe portfolio section found on the Perpetual Footsteps homepage.
2 Comments
John Clare
May 31, 2016Hi Paul
I’m really enjoyig your posts. I love Prague and your description and photos brought it all back! Great trip you’re having!
Keep it coming.
JC
Pat White
May 31, 2016Nice post about Prague. I feel like I am traveling with you.
Love Mom