Day 40 – Christchurch, New Zealand – 9:52 PM

Having completed a decent hike two days ago, yesterday I decided to explore the city of Christchurch.  While checking in to my hostel last Thursday, I saw advertised a free walking tour of the city.  Many of my hostel mates raved about this tour and told me to make it a priority before I left town.

Thus far in New Zealand, I’ve set out alone or with others from my hostel to explore cities.  However, since Christchurch was devastated by earthquakes in September 2010 and February 2011, there remains a massive amount of construction occurring near the city center.  I deemed it smart to get my first view of the city through a guided tour.  I would also learn more from a local guide then wandering around alone looking at buildings I knew nothing about.

The tour began at the base of the Chalice in Cathedral Square.  The steel sculpture, in the shape of a cone, was designed by Neil Dawson, a Christchurch native who attended the University of Canterbury.  Chalice measures 59 feet high and is adorned with native plants etched out of the steel structure.  It survived the earthquakes of 2010 and 2011, unlike much of the surrounding area.

After a quick introduction in Cathedral Square, the tour moved to neighboring streets.  The guide intermixed a bit of New Zealand history along with the history of Christchurch.  He explained that Christchurch was originally settled because it was one of the few flat areas in the South Island and its close proximity to the Avon River.  But, with every turn of my head I was reminded of the destruction that remained from the earthquakes.

Within yards of the Chalice, stands the Christchurch Cathedral, a recognizable symbol of the 2011 earthquake.  Originally damaged in the September 2010 earthquake, the spire of the cathedral was completely destroyed five months later during the February 2011 quake.  The tower and structure of the Cathedral also suffered catastrophic damage.  Two additional earthquakes in 2011 resulted in the collapse of the entire west wall.  There is an ongoing controversy as to the fate of the cathedral.  The Anglican Church would like to raze the remaining structure and construct a modern place of worship in its place.  However, many citizens of Christchurch oppose the church’s position and would like to see the original structure restored and reopened over time.  The ultimate decision rests within the legal system.

According to our guide the September 2010 quake registered 7.1 magnitude on the Richter Scale, while the February 2011 quake only registered 6.3 magnitude.  However, the 2011 quake caused significantly more damage due to its’ shallower depth of 3.1 miles below the surface as opposed to 6.2 in 2010.  In addition, the epicenter of the 2011 quake was six miles from the center of Christchurch while the 2010 quake was centered 25 miles west of the city.  The destruction was not limited to structures.  The quake also claimed the lives of 185 individuals.  A memorial has been established with rows of white chairs.  Each chair represents the life of an individual whose life was taken on that fateful February day.

One piece of equipment the city has relied on during its recovery are large, metal shipping containers.  Since Christchurch abuts the Southern Pacific Ocean, it is home to a port and thus has access to a significant number of these containers.  On my bus ride into the city, I saw containers stacked four and five high supporting the last remaining walls of buildings whose roofs collapsed.  Containers also line parking lots and streets storing materials for current and future restoration projects. However, the most remarkable use of these containers lies at the Re-Start Mall.

The Re-Start Mall is home to businesses and restaurants forced to shutter their doors after the quakes.  Rather than rebuilding a normal four walled structure, establishments acquired shipping containers and opened them to customers.  In some cases, one container has been placed atop another, thus forming an “X” if viewed from above. The top containers doors have been removed and replaced with large glass windows.  People sat at tables inside the container, eating meals while gazing at the scene below.  It is a truly remarkable scene to wander through.

During the weeks and days leading up to my arrival in Christchurch I asked for opinions of the city from fellow travelers who have traversed its streets.  The majority informed me that there is not much to do nor see in Christchurch and that I shouldn’t stay long.  But, after taking in this city for two days, I say those opinions are wrong.  Yes, the city is still in a rebuilding mode, but there is much to do and a lot to learn about if you take the time to explore and open your mind.  Those who arrive and immediately board a bus or stay only one night before departing are doing themselves and Christchurch a disservice.