Day 110 – Phnom Penh – 12:36 PM

After a emotionally moving day exploring the Tuol Sleng Prison and killing fields of Choeung Ek, I woke yesterday needing something to lift my spirits.  I flipped open my guidebook and quickly glanced upon the National Museum and the Royal Palace.  I decided to explore these two attractions during my last day in Phnom Penh.

I threw on a t-shirt and descended five flights of stairs to the lobby of One Stop Hostel.  I ordered an omelet and fruit breakfast from the in house chef and sat gazing through the doors at the bustling street.  The sun already coated pedestrians and passing vehicles in bright yellows and oranges and the temperatures were sure to increase as the day progressed.  Kevin, a fellow American I met the day prior, emerged from the stairwell and sat down opposite me.  He ordered breakfast as well and we patiently waited for our plates to appear.  We discussed the prior days activities and the impact the Cambodian Genocide had on each of us.  We agreed it was a tough day but could not be compared to the actual horror felt by each victim and the succeeding generations.

I informed Kevin I planned to visit the National Museum and nearby Royal Palace.  He mentioned his desire to tour those attractions as well and we agreed to go together.  Our breakfast plates appeared; the omelet and fruit along with two slices of toast looked delicious.  I spread butter over golden-brown toast and sampled the sliced fruit in an accompanying bowl.  The dragon fruit, banana and pineapple were sweet and juicy. Each tasted much fresher than the fruit I remember from New England.  I finished my plate and we agreed to meet in the lobby at 10 AM to begin the day.

I walked up to my room and got changed.  After a quick phone call, I changed the battery in my Nikon camera and descended back to the lobby.  As I waited for Kevin, I pulled out a map to gauge the distance between our accommodation and the National Museum.  The two were only one mile apart and within walking distance.  However, we could split the price of a tuk tuk and get there quicker and without breaking a sweat.  Kevin appeared and he agreed.  We stepped onto the street and negotiated with the first driver.  He agreed on $2 USD fare and we stepped into his cab. He started his engine and away we went.

For those unfamiliar, a tuk tuk is a popular form of transportation throughout Southeast Asia.  A bicycle or motorbike trailers an open aired seating area that accommodates 1-4 riders.  The tuk tuks in Phnom Penh sat four people maximum and were powered by motorbikes. Our driver motored away from the curb and into the morning traffic.  We proceeded south from One Stop Hostel and arrived soon after at the National Museum ticket window.  We paid our tuk tuk driver and he departed with a wave and a smile.  We walked to the window and each paid for one adult admission ticket.  To my left sat tour buses and their occupants filed into the museum as well. I know tours are popular but I loathe seeing tour groups enter my destination. As the tour groups turned left and started at the beginning of Cambodian history, Kevin and I turned right and worked back in time beginning with the present.

As we proceeded through the exhibits, we gazed upon artifacts and pieces of jewelry that dated back to the 3^rd and 4^th centuries. Many of the statues are influenced by the two primary religions of Cambodia: Brahmanism and Buddhism. Brahmanism incorporates three main gods referred to as the Brahmanistic Triad. The first god is Shiva, the god of destruction. He is responsible for the periodic creation and destruction of the universe. Often portrayed with his wife sitting on a bull, Shiva is commonly depicted with a third eye in the middle of his forehead. The second god is Vishnu, the protector of the universe. He is often pictured reclined in a deep sleep. Vishnu has a human body with four arms, each arm holding a different item that is relevant to Brahmanism. The final god is Brahma, the creator of the universe. Brahma, a bull, is rarely seen in Cambodian art or sculpture. However, he has been represented with four heads, each facing a different cardinal direction.

Buddhism, the more widely known of the two Cambodian religions, was created in the 6^th Century BCE by Prince Gautama. It gained prominence in the 12^th Century and became the state religion under King Jayavarman VII. Buddhism, like Brahmanism, also incorporates three elements into its triad. The first is Buddha, which translates into “Enlightened One.” Buddha is often depicted in meditation while sitting on the coils of a serpent that protects him. The second entity of the triad is Lokeshvara, the lord of compassion. Lokeshvara is normally represented with four arms, each holding a lotus flower, rosary, book and flask. The final element is Prajnaparamita, the goddess of wisdom. She is seen holding a lotus bud and was a popular figure along with Lokeshvara during the Pre-Angkorian and Angkorian periods of Cambodian history that dated from 0 – 1431 AD.

As we strolled the halls of the National Museum, sculptures, paintings and drawings of the aforementioned deities lined the walls. I was struck at the scale and detail of many pieces. Some are so large, I wondered how they were constructed and transported without modern machinery. Others are so small and intricate; it is hard to believe they were cast by hand hundreds of years prior. Unlike museums in the United States, no barriers or protective glass kept patrons at a distance. I got as close as I wanted without touching each piece.

After our visit to the National Museum, Kevin and I took a short reprieve back to One Stop Hostel prior to touring the Royal Palace. The full impact of the sun and heat hit us as we trekked the one-mile back to our accommodation.  We decided to forgo a tuk tuk for the return trip.  I regretted that decision with each step.  As we stepped from the sidewalk into the lobby, the wall of air conditioning refreshed us instantly. We sat at a nearby table and ordered lunch. As we ate, another roommate, Julia, appeared and asked what our plan was for the afternoon. We told her our intention to tour the Royal Palace and she showed interest as well. We had two hours to occupy before the Royal Palace re-opened; she would be ready to leave at that time. We agreed to meet at 2 PM for the short tuk tuk ride to the entrance gate.

After finishing lunch and relaxing in the air conditioning for a bit, 2 PM finally arrived. We gathered our water bottles and cameras and stepped into one of the tuk tuks that lined the street outside our hostel. The driver agreed on the $3 fare for the short ride and away we went. We arrived minutes later and walked through the entry gate.  Upon entering, we spotted a large sign that listed the required dress code for all entrants. Unfortunately, Julia did not meet the requirements and understandably did not want to spend $3 to purchase a t-shirt or shawl to cover her bare shoulders. She told us to complete the tour without her while she waited for us at a nearby coffee shop. Kevin and I purchased our entrance tickets and walked through the gates.

The opulence and gold struck me immediately. Large, ornate buildings dotted the spacious courtyard. Stupas, the Buddhist name for large monuments, rose to the sky in numerous locations. Crowds meandered in all directions as the early afternoon heat seared everything not under the cover of shade. The Royal Palace was originally constructed in the mid-19^th century after King Norodom relocated from Oudong to Phnom Penh. Over the next decade numerous buildings were erected around the first. However, as the years progressed, a number of these have been razed and replaced. Those not demolished have been modified and enlarged by succeeding kings. In its current state, walls divide the palace grounds into four sections. A number of areas are closed to the public while others can only be viewed by peering in windows and doors.

My tour of the National Museum and Royal Palace were a welcomed change from the somber atmosphere of Tuol Sleng Prison and the killing fields of Choeung Ek. As I travel from city to city and country to country, I attempt to learn as much about the history and culture of that area as possible. As I depart Phnom Penh and make my way to Siem Reap, I am comfortable in saying I learned quite a bit about Cambodian history, both the heart wrenching aspects of the country’s past and those that are a bit more uplifting.