Day 137 – Bangkok, Thailand – 1:14 PM

Aside from the occasional trip to nearby Bangkok Christian Hospital, my first five days in the capital city of Thailand were uneventful and quite sedentary. My previous post detailed the reasoning behind this drastic change to my normal daily routine. I woke Thursday and vowed to change my idle behavior, if my declined health permitted. I pulled out my guidebook and began to thumb through the pages that listed nearby attractions. Paragraph after paragraph described numerous temples that most tourists visit. Having traveled through Southeast Asia for over two months, I have seen a wealth of temples and prefer to venture elsewhere.

I closed my guidebook and opened a map of Bangkok I received upon landing last Sunday. My eyes scanned the roads and points of attractions signified by small, blue stars. My gaze eventually fell upon a small picture of two Thai boxers above the words “Rajadamnern Stadium”. This looked interesting. From first glance, it appeared that Rajadamnern Stadium was home to Thai boxing. I heard in the past that the best way to experience a local culture is to take in a live sporting event. Perhaps there was a bout for later that night. I grabbed my phone and opened Google. I typed in the name of the stadium and navigated to its schedule of events. I was in luck. There were fights scheduled to begin at 6:30 PM. I jumped over to the ticket page and a multitude of tickets were for sale. Three tiers of tickets were available. Ringside seats, known as Tier I, were $57 USD; Tiers II and III were less expensive and provided you a seat in the upper bowl section of the stadium. According to the website, Tier III is home to locals who prefer to gamble on the fights. I contemplated sitting with the rowdy crowd in Tier III but decided to purchase a ringside seat. I put away my phone excited for what the night had in store.

I had a few hours to kill and a number of items on my to-do list. I needed to purchase a train ticket to Chang Mai for Saturday and hopefully locate a new UV filter for my Nikkor camera lens. Sunny Camera, a well-respected camera shop was located on Silom Road, a short walk from my accommodation at the Fuji Hotel. I grabbed my room key and rode the elevator to the lobby. I threw a wave to the receptionist and walked into the sweltering mid-day heat. My first order of business was the camera shop on Silom Road. If time permitted, I planned to walk to Hua Lamphong Station and inquire about tickets to Chang Mai. I turned right onto the sidewalk and then took an immediate right onto a side street. I continued past a multitude of gem and jewelry stores before turning left onto Silom. From my research, Sunny Camera was nearly one mile from where I stood. I wiped sweat from my brow and continued. I passed pop-up street stalls selling t-shirts and tank tops adorned with Thailand references. Others sold Buddha statues, fruit and a number of other items. I gazed quickly over the selections and progressed towards my destination.

As I crossed by one alley, I noticed a small storefront out of the corner of my eye. In neon letters stuck to its windows were the words “Travel Services”, “Bus”, “Train”, and “Plane”. Perhaps they could help me book a bus ticket. I walked towards the entrance and pulled open the sliding glass door. A wall of air-conditioned goodness swept over me. If nothing else, at least this shop provided me a short reprieve from the heat. A woman behind they desk welcomed me with a smile and asked the reason for my visit. I informed her I hoped to travel by train from Bangkok to Chang Mai the following Saturday. She invited me to sit and flipped open a blue binder that sat atop her desk. She thumbed through a number of pages before sliding it in my direction. The page before me listed 4 daily trains from Bangkok to Chang Mai. One departed during the day and three in the evening with a morning arrival. I glanced through the options and settled on the 7:45 PM departure. I chose an upper bunk, in an air-conditioned cabin, for $38 USD. I handed over the necessary Thai Baht denominations and she drafted a receipt. She then wrote up my ticket and instructed me on the details: when to arrive at Hua Lamphong Station in Bangkok, how to locate my appropriate cabin and bunk along with other minutia. I smiled, thanked her for her services and stepped back into the sunshine.

I strolled down the sidewalk happy to have checked that item off my to-do list without having to walk to Hua Lamphong Station, one mile in the opposite direction. I continued along Silom Road and noticed a glaring difference between it and nearby Surawong Road. Large banks, company buildings and commercial enterprises make up the majority of real estate along Surawong Road. Aside from three or four accommodations, most who frequent the buildings along Surawong Road do so from 9-5. If Surawong Road is the commercial epicenter of this neighborhood, Silom Road is the tourist hub. In all directions, I spotted hotels, restaurants, and shopping centers. Clearly, the establishments that open their doors on Silom Road cater to the local influx of tourists.

I continued in the direction of Sunny Camera. Tuk Tuk drivers stepped from their vehicles and tried to sweet talk me into a local tour. I smiled, shook my head and proceeded. Vans shuttling tourists from nearby hotels to transportation hubs pulled from driveways while others arrived with a fresh crop of wide-eyed, luggage toting individuals. I eventually stumbled upon 166 Silom Road, the headquarters of Sunny Camera. I pulled open the large glass doors and proceeded inside. Cameras and lenses in glass cases lined the walls. As a budding photographer, I enjoyed walking around looking at the latest in photography gear. I imagined what I would purchase if I had an unlimited budget. A sales representative stepped forward and asked if he could be of assistance. I told him I needed a new 52mm UV filter. He walked off to consult with another representative. I continued building my imaginary arsenal of cameras and lenses. He returned moments later and informed me that a filter with my specifications was not in stock. He apologized and rattled off a set of directions to a nearby camera store that would have what I needed. I thanked him for his time and stepped back through the large glass doors and the awaiting tuk tuk drivers.

I glanced at my watch and realized the afternoon was progressing quickly. I hoped to enjoy a quick nap before showering and heading to the fights. I decided to worry about the UV filter another day. After a quick pasta lunch, at a quiet Italian restaurant, I walked back to the Fuji Hotel on Surawong Road. I was happy to have struck at least one item from my to-do list. I stepped into the air-conditioned lobby and the receptionist welcomed me back. I walked to the bank of elevators and pushed the ascending button. Moments later the doors opened and soon after I was back in room 507. I laid down for a quick nap, hoping the siesta would keep my sinus infection symptoms at bay.

My alarm sounded at 4:30 PM and I sprang from my bed and into the shower. I hoped to be out the door in thirty minutes. Rajadamnern Stadium is just over a mile from The Fuji Hotel. As a result you may be wondering why I wanted to leave so early. I needed to hail a cab, snake our way through the evening rush hour traffic, find the ticket window and purchase a ringside seat. I realized over the previous months that many things in Southeast Asia do not work out as planned so I built in my own 30-45 minute buffer. I finished showering, threw on a pair of shorts and t-shirt, grabbed my camera and room key. By 5:10 PM, I was on the sidewalk, arm in the air. Surprisingly, a number of cabs drove past me with empty back seats. One eventually pulled over and I jumped inside. I pointed to Rajadamnern Stadium on my phone and he nodded. He asked if I purchased a ticket yet. He grew nervous when I said no. He pulled out his phone and spoke in Thai for a few minutes. He hung up and said someone would meet me outside the stadium with a ticket. I grew skeptical at this plan but vowed to see how it played out.

Traffic was not as bad as suspected and I arrived shortly before 6 PM. An employee of Rajadamnern Stadium stepped towards me as we pulled along the curb. My driver indicated this was the person on the other end of his phone call. I paid my fare and stepped onto the curb. I handed over $57 USD and in turn was given a ticket. I glanced at the ticket to make sure it was legitimate. On it was written the date, price, and Tier I. It seemed authentic. This employee ushered me up a small flight of stairs and through a turnstile. We walked through a series of plastic strips that hung in a doorway as a makeshift barrier. Suddenly before me stood a large ring, six rows of seats with white and blue coverings, and gray wooden benches that lined the upper levels of the bowl. We proceeded to the far end of the ring and he pointed to a seat. I smiled and thanked him. I picked up a nearby fight guide and sat down. A waiter appeared and asked if I wanted a beer. I nodded and ordered a hotdog as well. Earlier in the day, I wondered if they would sell American stadium food like hotdogs, popcorn and peanuts. I told myself to not get my hopes up. Sure enough, each of those items was available.

I sat back and took in the atmosphere around me. A large bank of lights hung low over the ring in order to illuminate the action. It appeared as though Tier III was behind a chain-link fence. That section must get pretty rowdy, maybe it’s a good thing I purchased ringside seats. The tiers began to fill up as the clock inched closer to 6:30 PM. I flipped through the fight card and analyzed the weight classes expected to square off. They ranged from 118 pounds to 140 pounds. A total of nine fights were scheduled, with fight seven being the main event.

At 6:30 PM, an announcer stepped into the ring and began speaking in Thai. He later spoke in English and provided a quick synopsis of the history of Thai Boxing. According to the announcer, the history of Thai boxing plays a key role in the sport and especially at Rajadamnern Stadium. The first boxing stadium in Thailand, Rajadamnern Stadium was the brainchild of former Prime Minister Field Marshal Plaek Pibulsongkram. Bids were collected and construction began in 1941. With the upsurge of World War II, supplies to continue construction were reallocated. Completion of Thailand’s first boxing stadium was delayed until late 1945. Originally constructed as an open-air stadium, a concrete roof and walls have been added in the years since to protect fighters and spectators from the elements.

Fighters appeared from the back and lined up to bow in reverence to those that fought before them. After a series of ceremonial songs and dances, the fights were ready to begin. Two fighters appeared from the back, one in red trunks and the other in blue. Native music from a live band filled the stadium as each fighter circled the ring bowing to the crowd. They walked back to their respective corners and received last minute pointers from their supporters. I noticed that each fighter looked young. I glanced at the faces in the fight card and each fighter scheduled that night did not look a day over seventeen years old. It made me believe that Thai boxing is a sport common among youths in Thailand, much like soccer, lacrosse, baseball and football are popular in America. The bell sounded and each fighter proceeded to the center of the ring. The referee relayed a set of instructions and both boxers touched gloves. They stepped back and the bell sounded again as the referee sliced through the air with his arm signaling the start of Round 1. Each boxer moved gracefully around the ring as they gauged their opponent. Punches and kicks were traded back and forth. A flutter of strikes ignited the crowd and supporters in each corner willed their fighter to victory.

For three minutes, strikes were traded back and forth. Flurries were met with lulls in action giving each fighter a moment to catch their breath before stepping in to deliver and avoid another blow. The bell sounded and the round was complete. Fighters raised their arms in victory having declared that round a win. They stepped to their corner and deposited their mouthpiece in the hand of a trainer. A wooden stool was placed against the turnbuckle and each fighter sat to catch a breath. As the night progressed, I always noticed figures approach the fighter between rounds and relay tips or suggestions. I came to believe that these individuals were the fathers of the fighters. It makes sense. Fathers in America do not hesitate to provide constructive criticism and suggestions to their offspring who partake in youth sports. Maybe the same can be said for fathers in the Thai culture. It is a common occurrence that crosses cultural boundaries and is built into the fabric of the child/father relationship.

Over the course of the night, I witnessed two knockouts and another fighter bloodied. However, I never witnessed any showboating or gloating by the victor. They quickly raised their arms in victory and were photographed before stepping from the ring and disappearing amongst the crowd. I came to realize throughout the night that there exists a mutual respect among fighters and their corner staff. At the conclusion of each match, the fighters hug and then proceed to hug the staff in the opposing corner. Fighters certainly want to win, but there is a camaraderie that stems from their appreciation for the history of the sport that means more.

I departed after the eighth fight of the night. It was shortly after 10 PM and I hoped to photograph the busy night scene that is popular in Bangkok. I stepped onto the curb outside Rajadamnern Stadium and hailed a cab back to Surawong Road. Rather than walking inside, I proceeded to Bang Rak Market, roughly ten minutes away. This is a popular destination among tourists and provides a wealth of things to photograph. Buses, tuk tuks, locals and tourists flowed in all directions as police officers tried to keep traffic flowing in a safe and orderly manner. I stood against a jersey barrier on the sidewalk with camera in hand. I captured a few good shots before I proceeded to different areas in the vicinity. Around 11:30 PM, I returned to my room after a successful night. The events of this day were exactly what I needed to escape my recent doldrums and motivate me to finish Thailand strong and proceed into India.