Day 80 – Mai Chau, Vietnam – 2:45 PM

Last Wednesday, after spending three days in Hanoi, I boarded an early morning bus bound for Mai Chau. Nearly four hours later, I arrived in the small district 65 miles southwest of Hanoi.  During the bus ride, I met a couple from Australia and an Isreali.  Our bus dropped us off in the village of Ban Lac.  The four of us decided to stay together as it would increase our ability to bargain for accommodations and food.

The streets of Ban Lac and the surrounding villages are lined with homestays.  These wooden structures are broken into two sections.  One housed a local family and the second was a large open room that was for travelers looking for a place to stay.  The host family normally cooks for those staying at their homestay.  We began walking through the streets inquiring about the price for two nights with food included.  As we ambled from street to street it became clear that most were quoting us similar prices.  We walked up to Hung Mech and bargained the price down to $6.75 USD per night with dinner and breakfast included.  The host suggested we look at our potential sleeping area and we obliged.  She led us up a flight of stairs and into a large open room.  The polished wood flooring was the first thing that caught my attention.  Off in the corner sat mattresses, pillows and blankets.  She stepped to a nearby window and opened the shutters.  I peered out and saw endless rice paddies and mountains not far off in the distance.  We agreed on the price and brought our bags up to our room.

By now it was close to 2 PM and we needed lunch.  We meandered through the village and passed a local woman standing behind a grill.  On closer inspection, we realized the grill was lined with filets of fish, skewers sliced through pieces of pork, and whole chickens without their innards.  The odors wafting into my nose made my mouth water.  After a conversation using hand motions, we managed to settle on a price of $4.50 USD for a plate of pork with a side of rice and vegetables.  A German from our bus happened to be riding a bicycle through the village and decided to join us for lunch.  Minutes later a large platter of pork appeared followed by overflowing bowls of rice and green beans.  Each was cooked to perfection and quickly filled our stomachs and appetites.

During the walk back to our homestay, we passed numerous stalls lined with goods handmade by locals.  Brightly colored clothing, scarves and handbags hung beside handmade knives in wooden sheaths, slingshots and an assortment of other eye-catching items.  Occasionally we passed a local sitting behind a sewing machine or spinning wheel.  They would politely look up from their task, share a smile and a wave then refocus their attention.

Yesterday, we woke up and decided early in the morning to rent motorbikes for the day. I intend on doing quite a bit of motor biking during my month in Vietnam and this provided good practice, as I have never been on a motorcycle. After a breakfast consisting of scrambled eggs and fresh bread, we prepared our daypacks and set out. Within walking distance of our homestay was the center of town. As we progressed down the main road, we came across a sign advertising motorbikes for rent. We walked into the nearby garage and began bargaining for the best deal. After a couple minutes of haggling we shook hands with the owner of the shop and off he ran to gather the bikes. He soon returned with two bikes and gave a quick rundown of the gears. Assuming I may crash during the day I jumped aboard the older bike and let the couple take the newer, more powerful bike.

I slowly turned the throttle and began moving forward. I leaned to the left and exited the short driveway and proceeded onto the main street. A little more throttle and away we went out of town. We had no definite plan, intending to motor around and see what we discovered. It was not soon before we meandered through small villages. Buffalo herders steered their beasts away from on coming traffic. Woman tending to the fields quickly looked in our direction before returning to their work. Children waved, displayed the “V” shaped peace symbol with their hands and yelled hello at our presence. Others simply gave us quizzical glances as few tourists make their way through these villages. We passed along the banks of the Black River. Slow moving boats snaked through the waters collecting bamboo and delivering it downstream to the bamboo factory. Lush forests lined the banks and small thatch-roofed houses emerged every so often from the tree line. This was the Vietnam I wanted to see and experience. In total we covered nearly 60 miles in just over four hours. I have done some amazing things in the three months I have been traveling but I do believe this motorbike excursion was the most fun I have had thus far.

After returning the bikes, we walked back to our homestay. I was anxious for a shower to rinse off the dust from the road, but not before a delicious dinner was cooked for us. Endless bowls of rice and vegetables accompanied moist chicken, tender pork spring rolls and a plate of fries. I devoured plate after plate while washing it all down with a couple of beers and a glass of rice wine. The day was a rousing success and I look forward to spending many more hours on the seat of a motorbike over the coming weeks and months.

Today was our last day in Mai Chau before returning to Hanoi. After waking around 8:30 this morning, we were served fried eggs and large, fresh rolls of bread. We had hours to occupy, as our transportation was not due until 3 pm. We decided to check out a nearby cave. According to others, there are close to 1,000 steps that must be traversed prior to reaching the cave’s entrance. We began walking around 11 am. After using broken Vietnamese and hand signals with locals we found the trailhead and began climbing. I quickly felt the humidity and beads of sweat soon followed. Stair after stair. Step after step. We eventually reached the mouth of the cave and inside we walked. I was struck by its sheer size. Massive stalactites hung from the roof and caused me to look up occasionally nervous I was moments away from being impaled. After spending close to 25 minutes within the cave, we traversed down the stairs and back to our homestay. Along the way, we stopped in a street-side mart to order a coffee and snacks to hold us over. As we sat reminiscing about our days in Mai Chau a local woman rode up on a bicycle and approached our table. I originally thought she was attempting to sell something to us. I politely shook my head and said no thank you. She continued talking in a language I did not understand and began motioning me to follow her to her bicycle. I stood up and walked with her to the curb. I noticed large green bags piled up near her bike. Each was filled with bottles and cans and she needed help lifting them onto the seat. I helped her move two green bags and three or four piles of cardboard. She pulled out her homemade kickstand, a long piece of wood, to balance the bike as we loaded the bags. I managed a quick “seflie” with her and away she went; down the road to collect more cans and cardboard.