Day 96 – Dalat, Vietnam – 6:13 AM

Last Wednesday I took an overnight bus from Hoin An to Nha Trang and arrived early in the morning.  I hailed a cab from the bus stop to my accommodation, Backpack Hostel.  I stepped from the taxi and proceeded down an alley. I cautiously walked not knowing if I was heading in the right direction.  A local stopped, sensing my uncertainty, and asked in broken English what I was looking for.  I pointed to the address of Backpack Hostel; he nodded and pointed down the alley. I continued and moments later found my destination.

I walked inside and the manager, Thanh Tinh, welcomed me with a smile and a handshake.  I inquired about a room and he offered me a bed in a 4-person dorm. He informed me that check in was not until noon but I was more than welcome to drop my bags and hang out on the couches in the lobby or explore the city.  I decided to relax for a bit before venturing out for breakfast.  I began chatting with two Canadians and one Swede that were eating breakfast.  We discussed our travel plans and I wished them well as they slung their packs and raced to catch a bus out of town.

I stayed on the couch and continued chatting with Thanh Tinh.  He explained to me that Backpack Hostel is fairly new, opening within the last year.  He became the manager and employed friends and family to assist him in running the residence.  Travelers began to wake and walk down the flight of stairs into the small common area.  I took leave of the couch to stroll the streets of Nha Trang in search of breakfast.  I exited Backpack Hostel and proceeded down the alley. I turned left onto a busy thoroughfare swarming with motorbikes, tour buses and pedestrians.

Nha Trang is a seaside city popular with tourists and backpackers alike.  Many flock to its beautiful beaches to enjoy the sunshine and swim in the temperate waters of Nha Trang Bay.  Highrise hotels abut the beach, many adorned with banners welcoming in the coming Tet New Year. Seafood restaurants dot the sidewalks as the local waters supply an abundance of marine life. I strolled by many of these establishments during my search for breakfast.

I passed a small eatery and stopped to glance at the menu.  The selection was to my liking along with the prices of each dish. A couple of locals and westerners sat at various tables; that was a good sign.  I stepped inside and slid into a seat. I ordered an egg omelet and a strawberry smoothie.  Minutes later a plate of food was placed in front of me and I dug in.  I cut the omelet in half along with the baguette that accompanied it. I placed one half of the omelet in each half of the baguette and devoured both within minutes.  It was the first bit of food I had eaten in hours and it was delicious.  The strawberry smoothie quenched my palate and I was eager for, but avoided, a second helping.

After paying my check I stepped outside and onto the sidewalk.  I stood there and contemplated my two options.  I could turn left and return to my hostel, or turn right and walk down by the beach.  It was still too premature to check in so I headed to the beach.  As I proceeded down one block of the city, I heard a “hello” coming from my right.  I turned and a Vietnamese fellow sprang from his chair on the sidewalk.  With a huge smile he pointed to my beard and in perfect english told me about his desire to grow a beard as well.  He reached out his hand, introduced himself as Binh and asked where I was from.  I introduced myself and told him I was from America.  He began to praise America and motioned for me to sit down.  I noticed his Original Vietnamese Easy Riders vest, a popular group of motorcycle guides in Vietnam.  My intent was to motorbike from Nha Trang to Dalat and figured he would have some insight into that journey.  After I took my seat he began telling me about the long history between Vietnam and America. In his opinion, those that live in North Vietnam have a very different opinion of Americans as opposed to those in the south.  He talked about his father’s role in helping American soldiers during the Vietnam War and how many customs in Vietnam have a touch of American influence.  As the discussion petered out, I asked him about his vest and my intention to ride to Dalat.

Binh gave me a quick smile and turned to retrieve a map from his bag.  He unfolded a worn map and placed it on the table between us.  He traced out the normal route that most backpackers take when biking between the two cities.  But, he traced a longer route that swung to the north before turning south into Dalat.  This second route was much more scenic and would give me the “true Vietnam” I desired to see.  He offered to drive me to Dalat over two days and show me this scenic route.  He insisted I would see more on the back of his bike than riding alone. I could not disagree with his argument.

Binh pulled out a notebook filled with reviews by former clients.  Individuals from across the globe raved about his services and the things they saw while riding with him.  One particular review stood out.  A backpacker was riding alone in Southern Vietnam and broke down on the side of the rode in the middle of nowhere.  Binh stumbled upon this stranded biker, managed to fix his bike and led him to safety.  According to this account, the stranded biker “would have surely died if it wasn’t for Binh”.  After I read this particular account, I pictured myself as that biker stranded in the jungle on the verge of starvation with nowhere to turn.  We agreed on a daily price that included accommodations and shook hands. It was settled; Binh was going to guide me to Dalat.

Fast forward 48 hours and Binh arrived at my accommodations in Nha Trang ready to pick me up for our two-day ride.  I brought my two bags outside and each went in a large plastic bag.  They were secured to the bike with thick leather straps.  Binh stepped on and fired up the engine.  I stepped on after and wedged myself between him and my bags strapped on the back.  We pulled away from the curb and our journey began.  We snaked through the center of Nha Trang and drove north.

I settled into my seat and the miles ticked by. Binh tried to avoid major thoroughfares during our drive as they are unsafe and provide less scenery than small country roads.  We passed through villages and small towns waving to locals as we drove.  Shortly after 1 PM, we stopped for lunch at a street side eatery.  One of the many perks of traveling with a local is their ability to speak the local language.  Binh and I walked in; he went behind the counter speaking with one of the employees and soon after overflowing bowls of rice adorned our table.  Plates of pork, beef and chicken followed along with a bowl of soup.  All told our lunch cost less than $3 USD.

Following our short respite, we threw on our helmets and motored away from the restaurant.  Our next stop was elephant rock later that afternoon.  Something only a local would know about, elephant rock is a giant granite rock that rises 200-300 feet from the ground.  Binh pulled off to the side of the road and told me to climb up and take in the views from the summit.  I set off down a dusty trail and eventually to the base of elephant rock.  It was a perfect way to relax for a couple minutes and take a break from the constant driving.  I stumbled across a group of local teenagers as I ascended.  Smiles grew on their faces when they saw the tall westerner, with the big beard walking toward them.  They asked to take a photo with me and I obliged.  I continued toward the peak and they meandered down.  The views from the top were tremendous and stretched for miles in all directions.  I took a few photographs of the surrounding landscape and then descended. Before I knew it, we were back on the bike and motoring to our accommodation in Huyen Lak.

The homestay Binh reserved for us was in a small village not far from Lak Lake, the largest natural body of water in the Central Highlands region of Vietnam. We arrived as the sun was setting and the colors in the sky made me wish our journey stretched for a few more miles. We pulled up and parked. I removed my two bags, walked up a flight of stairs and into my private room. It was a simple room, with a large bed and dresser. I dropped my bags and descended back into the common area. Over a rice and soup dinner Binh and I chatted about the days events and what was in store for the following day. He asked if I wanted to extend my trip with him and he would lead me south from Dalat and into the Mekong Delta. I intended on spending some time in that region and knew a guide would be beneficial. I drifted off to sleep later that night contemplating if I should continue with Binh or leave him in Dalat and make my own way south to Ho Chi Minh City and into the Mekong Delta.

 

* It has been a very busy couple of days with little to no down time.  Pictures and videos will follow in the near future.  Stay tuned to Perpetual Footsteps.