Day 113 – Siem Reap, Cambodia – 10:06 PM

Last Saturday I arrived in Siem Reap, Cambodia after a daylong bus journey from Phnom Penh. Saturday evening and Sunday were spent acclimating with this new destination and contemplating my remaining days in Cambodia. I met Sam, a hostel mate from Germany, who is three weeks into a six-month journey through Southeast Asia concluding in New Zealand. Over beers on the famed “Pub Street” in Siem Reap, we discussed our backgrounds, travel aspirations and plans for Siem Reap. Most venture to Siem Reap to visit the historical temples found in Angkor, a nearby archeological site, approximately 5 miles from Siem Reap. Sam and I agreed that we wanted to watch the sunrise over the temples but Sunday would most likely be busier than a weekday. We parted Saturday night agreeing to explore the city on Sunday and catch the sunrise on Monday morning.

Late Sunday afternoon, Ray, an Austrian hostel mate, and I began chatting and he described two areas within Angkor that he wished to visit: Banteay Srei Temple and the area along the banks of the Kbal Spean River. He could not find anyone to accompany him and I was extended the invitation. I informed him that I intended to watch the sunrise with Sam and would have to run the plan by him before committing. As we sat in the lobby of One Stop Hostel, our accommodation in Siem Reap, Sam walked in after dining with his parents. They traveled to Siem Reap on a short holiday to ensure their son was still healthy and in one piece. Sam informed me that his parents and he planned on watching the sunset together the following morning; that left me open to explore Banteay Srei and Kbal Spean with Ray.

On Monday morning Ray and I jumped into our tuk tuk at 11 AM for the ninety-minute ride to Banteay Srei. While a number of temples in Angkor are only twenty to thirty minutes from Siem Reap, a few are set further out in the rural landscape that envelopes the area. We stopped at a local mart to grab a few drinks and snacks for the journey before heading north out of town. We joined a steady stream of tuk tuks, tour buses and bicycles that ferried eager passengers towards Angkor hoping to experience the lore of the temples that dot the landscape. Miles later, we pulled into the ticket control area and I jumped out to purchase my entry into the site. Single day passes are available for $10 USD while three-day passes can be purchased for $20 USD. I chose the three-day pass knowing full well it takes more than a single day to take in all the sites found in Angkor. In addition, the three-day pass gave me the flexibility to come and go as I pleased and not rush through the temples. After my ticket was punched indicating my first day was now active we motored past a large blue sign welcoming us to Angkor.

Angkor was the capital city of the Khmer Empire beginning in AD 802 when Khmer monarch Jayavarman II declared himself a “god-king”. Thus began a 500-year period in which Angkor grew in size and at one point housed 0.1% of the world’s population during the 11^th and 12^th centuries. In 1431, a Khmer rebellion against Siamese authority was unsuccessful. Angkor was subsequently over run and much of the population dispersed to the south. Angkor is home to over 1,000 temples ranging from small brick structures to the famed Angkor Wat, billed as the largest religious monument in the world. Angkor was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992 and now sees nearly two million visitors per year.

Although we were now in Angkor, we drove another 45 minutes until we reached our first destination, Banteay Srei, a temple dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. Built in the 10^th century, Banteay Srei is the only prominent temple in Angkor that was built by associates of the king and not the monarch himself. As I stepped from the tuk tuk and walked towards the entrance, I was struck me by the color of Banteay Srei. All structures within the perimeter walls were a red, sandstone hue. As we traversed centuries old steps and pedestals, the blazing sun drenched us in a coat of sweat. I quickly gave up trying to keep the sweat at bay and ignored it for the remaining hours before I returned to the air conditioning of One Stop Hostel. Luckily, Ray and I beat the crowds to Banteay Srei and were two of only a dozen or so people that gazed upon its libraries and sculpted monkeys that guarded each. I found it hard to believe, but in awe at the detailed craftsmanship found throughout the structures.

We completed our self-guided tour in over an hour and took respite from the sun in the nearby café. We took seats and each ordered a cold drink. My glass of ice water did not remain full for long, as my thirst needed quenching. We eventually returned to our tuk tuk for the 45-minute ride to Kbal Spean River. Over paved roads we drove until the last five minutes of the trip. We turned left and proceeded down a sand path that opened into a large parking lot. Two other tuk tuks sat parked without a single tour bus in sight. Ray and I breathed a sigh of relief that once again we beat the tour groups. Our driver, Boz, wished us good luck as we walked to the trailhead at the opposite end of the parking lot. A placard gave a short description of the area and a small, wooden sign indicated that 1500 meters separated us from the river. We exchanged uneasy glances and took our first steps.

Lush, green forests replaced the dry, red clay that characterized Banteay Srei. Boulders the size of compact cars littered the trail and nearby forest. Trees hundreds of feet high and just as old, grew from the ground and caused my back to arch as I tried to examine their canopies. The meters between the river and us gradually decreased as we proceeded. We exchanged pleasantries with hikers heading in the opposite direction and joined a guide and lone hiker who were also venturing to the river. The Kbal Spean River is an archeological site whose banks and riverbed feature stone carvings. Archeologists and historians predict the carvings originated in the 11^th and 12^th centuries by hermits living in the surrounding area.

We continued down the trail and eventually reached the carved out riverbed. The dry season that now canvases Cambodia caused the Kbal Spean River to drastically decline in size. The roaring rapids I imagined during the hike turned out to be a trickle of water that spilled into a shallow pond. Earlier, Ray mentioned a waterfall that he read about before traveling to Siem Reap. The dry season claimed that as well. The lack of water provided crystal clear, unobstructed views of the carvings that make this site well known. We gazed upon carvings of animals and Hindu gods Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. We sat on a nearby bench to regroup before making the 1500-meter trek back to Boz and our tuk tuk. We retraced our steps and reached the parking lot around 4 PM. Locals approached and asked if we wanted a cold drink for $1 USD. I smiled and nodded agreeing to buy a bottle of water and an ice cold Coca Cola. We climbed into the tuk tuk and put our feet up for the two-hour ride back to One Stop Hostel.

The first of my three-day pass was complete and I was eager to explore additional temples over the days that followed. After we returned to One Stop Hostel, I approached the reception desk and asked if they knew a location to rent a motorbike. The receptionist nodded and slid me a piece of paper. It listed a rental company, the bikes available and a price of $10 USD for a 24-hour rental. He asked if I still wanted to rent and I nodded. After a quick telephone call to the company, everything was finalized and my bike arrived yesterday morning shortly before 11 AM. My backpack was ready to go and I jumped on after the paperwork was completed. Much like when I learned to drive a manual-transmission vehicle, I am still nervous every time I get on a motorbike. I hope and pray I do not stall nor fall off during the first few minutes after easing off the clutch and onto the gas. I gingerly proceeded onto local roads and then onto Highway 6. I entered and exited a rotary with no issues and proceeded towards Angkor following the same route from the day prior.

I visited the following Temples on Day #2:

Prasat Kravan – Originally built during the 10^th century, Prasat Kravan is a series of five, brick towers. Etchings found throughout the structures indicate the temple is dedicated to Vishnu. Small, when compared to other temples in Angkor, Prasat Kravan was quiet when I arrived on my motorbike yesterday afternoon. It was a moving experience to walk around these five towers in near silence and think about the time and effort it took to construct them so long ago.

Bat Chum – From Prasat Kravan, I motored the short distance to Bat Chum. I departed the main road that leads through Angkor and proceeded down a small, local road before it veered to the left. Before me stood three brick towers that were supported by wooden buttresses. This structure is near collapse and officials are trying to keep it upright prior to restoration. Bat Chum was built during the 10^th Century and approved by Kavindrarimthana, a Buddhist minister and confidant of then-King Rajendravarman.

Banteay Kdei – Built during the 12^th to 13^th centuries, Banteay Kdei can be translated to mean “a citadel of chambers”.   Until the 1960s, Buddhist monks inhabited the structures for periods of time over the centuries. As I proceeded towards the entryway, I noticed the four faces hewn into stone that point in each cardinal direction. I have seen photographs of these faces while researching this round-the-world journey and I was in awe to view them in person. The crowds were much larger than my previous two stops as Banteay Kdei is a popular destination. However, there are so many nooks and crannies to discover that it is not hard to escape the bustle and explore in solitude.

Srah Srang – Across the street from Banteay Kdei is a large reservoir that provides a beautiful reflection of the nearby tree line. The brain child of Kavindrarimthana, the same Buddhist minister that approved Bat Chum, Srah Srang measures 700 by 350 meters. It was the serene location I needed to relax after hours exploring the nearby temples.

Ta Prohm – My final temple yesterday was made popular in Tomb Raider starring Angelina Jolie. As a result, it is a destination on the lists of each person who visits Angkor. Built during the 12^th and 13^th centuries, Ta Prohm was designed to be a Buddhist monastery and university. Little restoration has occurred at Ta Prohm and giant, aged trees still grow through and around many of the structures and stone perimeter wall. Portions that collapsed have been left untouched and provide an eerie, apocalyptic feel for any visitor.

After walking through Ta Prohm for nearly two hours, I needed to occupy the ninety minutes until sunset. I decided to motor south and proceed to Angkor Wat. As I pulled alongside the moat that surrounds Angkor Wat, I noticed a group of monkeys emerging from the woods and proceeding towards the water. I pulled to the side of the road and turned off my bike. They continued past my bike and gathered a short distance away. I cautiously approached and raised my camera and managed a couple of photographs. I followed one particular monkey as he picked up a plastic water bottle, unscrewed the cap, raised the bottle to his lips and tilted his head back in hopes of getting every last drop. I smiled and let out a laugh at what just occurred. After a couple minutes, I fired up my bike and continued towards Angkor Wat and the approaching sunset. Rather than sitting in one spot, I parked my bike and walked around as the sun in all its orange, fiery glory slipped from view.

As dusk quickly approached I stepped onto my motorbike for the short ride back to One Stop Hostel. I flipped on the headlight and pulled into the rush of traffic leaving Angkor. The rush of air on my face and through my t-shirt felt refreshing after a long day exploring in the heat. My intention was to renew the rental for an additional 24-hours but was unable. Luckily, I stumbled upon a different rental company and secured a bike for tomorrow. I will head back to Angkor early in the morning to explore further and wrap up my three-day pass. Today was productive none-the-less. I extended my stay in Siem Reap for a fourth-time and will depart for Laos on Friday.