During my round-the-world adventure in 2016 I spent two months crisscrossing twelve European countries and attempted to take in as much history and culture as possible. Prague and Budapest, the capitals of the Czech Republic and Hungary, respectively, were two cities that left me breathless. In fact, I wrote separate blog posts on each.  If you are curious as to how my tumultuous relationship with these cities began, the details are HERE and HERE.

Fast forward to a few weeks ago and there I was, standing next to the baggage carousel in Prague’s Václav Havel Airport. My girlfriend Elizabeth, the brains behind the trip, joined me and we eagerly awaited our luggage. Having a travel partner meant a few things would be different from my 2016, solo excursion. Hostels were now out and hotels were in. We would be dining at sit-down restaurants rather than simply grabbing a bratwurst from a food stall and looking for the closest empty park bench. Fortunately, some things stayed the same. As she reached for her rolling suitcase, I straightened out my Colorado hat and kept an eye out for my backpack! PERPETUAL FOOTSTEPS was back at it! Our itinerary called for a few days in Prague followed by a few days in Budapest. It does not get any better!

We arrived in Prague with a rough list of places to visit during our stay. From my travels, I knew that while lists are helpful, it is often impossible to do everything. We agreed to see as much as possible, but avoid rushing in order to check another location off our list. We settled quickly into our hotel room after a twenty-minute ride from the airport. I loaded up a small daypack with my camera and made sure my wallet held the local currency, Czech Korunas.

Our hotel was two miles from Old Prague, home to many of the popular sights. This meant we had to rely on the underground metro to expedite that journey. The Andel Metro stop, a few minutes walk from our hotel, was our first destination. We approached a ticket machine and attempted to figure out how to buy two, one-way tickets. We were quickly overwhelmed by the numerous options and even the English translation failed to help. We stood there and lost coin after coin to a machine that did not provide us a ticket or our money back. I happened to glance over my shoulder and witnessed person after person walk past the ticket validation checkpoint without even pretending to validate a ticket. I looked around a little more and did not see anyone who appeared to be an employee of the transportation department. Elizabeth and I looked at each other and knew what the other was thinking. Do we follow the herd and walk right through? Worst case, we get caught, plead ignorance and see where the chips fall. It was worth the risk.

I put our depleted stash of coins in my pocket and we walked past the checkpoint like we were Prague residents on our way home from a long day at the office. I expected to hear shouting as we boarded the descending escalator and imagined us being pursued by a burley, European man hollering for us to stop. There was silence. We made it. This became our routine twice a day during our stay in Prague. Only later were our eyes opened to how the Prague transit system operates. (More on that a bit later on)

I won’t bore you faithful subscribers with the day-to-day minutia of our trip. Here are a few of our highlights from Prague.

Klementinum
Sandwiched between the famed Charles Bridge to the west and Old Town Square to the east, theKlementinum refers to the Baroque Library Hall, Meridian Hall and Astronomical Tower, all open to the public. Our tour guide led a small group of us through the numerous rooms and explained the history and evolution of each area. The Baroque Library is housed on the second floor and was our first stop that morning. Through the power of Google Images, I had an idea of what the interior of the library looked like and was curious to learn more about it while letting my eyes browse the shelves.

Our guide explained that the library was completed in 1722 at the behest of Charles University, a local, Jesuit run institution. Our group approached a set of wooden, double doors and our guide reached out and gently pulled them open. A velvet rope hung across the divide and blocked our entrance. We approached the barrier and I craned my neck to observe the interior. Our guide explained that while the number of volumes lining the shelves has increased over the years, the interior mirrors what it resembled centuries ago. Frescos of Jesuit saints along with well-known patrons of the university grace the ceiling along with educational motifs, all the work of painter Jan Hiebl. According to our guide, full access inside the library is only granted to a small number of government employees who maintain the collection of literature. As a result, many of the books have been digitized so the general public can access the information that occupies the shelves. A row of large globes bisected the room. Each depicted the world, as it was known during the era from which it hailed. A “No Photos” sign hung next to the door and our guide kept a close eye over the group. As a result, you will have to resort to Google Images as well to see the interior.

After departing the Baroque Library we began ascending the Astronomical Tower. Also completed in 1722, the tower was originally built as a look out over the surrounding lands. However, as years progressed it became a bastion of astronomical knowledge due to the work of Josef Stepling, a Jesuit mathematician and physicist. It was equipped with numerous instruments to measure the movement of constellations and distances between celestial bodies. Approximately halfway up the tower we stopped in a dark room and our guide threw open a wooden panel in the floor. Inside sat a narrow white strip. We snapped a few photographs as our guide pointed to a hole in the nearby wall. Beginning in 1842, an accurate measure of high noon took place when the sunlight, shining through the hole, landed upon the white band. As noon struck, a flag was raised atop the tower and a cannon blast echoed through the cobble-stoned streets. This alerting of the citizenry occurred daily until 1928.

Onward we climbed and soon came to the end of the staircase. From there we exited onto a walkway that sat just below the apex of the tower. The cool morning air and bright blue skies welcomed me with open arms. I snapped photo after photo of the surrounding skyline and took in the 360-degree views. I gazed down on the Charles Bridge as it spanned the Vltava River. Just to the right sat the Prague Castle with the Cathedral of St. Vitus shooting skyward from its center. From that perspective it was quite clear why Prague is known as “The City of a Thousand Spires”.

Valmont at the Estates Theater
During the weeks leading up to our stay in Prague, I perused the Internet for points of interest that are unique to the city. I stumbled upon the Estates Theater, built during the latter half of the 18^th century to encourage people to consume the arts. I navigated to the performance schedule, curious if anything was available during our stay. The ballet Valmont was our only option. I was intrigued and interested. I scrolled to the ticket section and available seats were limited to the fifth-level balcony, side stage. I raised the idea to Elizabeth and she replied exuberantly. I purchased two tickets and brushed up on my opera house etiquette.

Early one evening we donned the finest clothes we managed to pack in our luggage and made our way to the Estates Theater. An usher scanned our tickets and a number of light-blue carpeted staircases escorted us higher-and-higher.   We sat down in high-backed, finely cushioned seats and peered over the railing. My eyes moved steadily down until they gazed upon the tops of heads of those lucky enough to have floor seats. I craned my neck to the right and there sat the stage. We would have to contort our bodies this way for the next ninety-minutes in order to take in the performance. While the position of our necks would make most chiropractors squirm, we were at a ballet and if I woke up the next morning with a crick in my neck, so be it.

The lights dimmed a few minutes before 7 p.m. while late stragglers raced to their seats. The house lights extinguished first followed by the large chandelier that hung from the ceiling of the theater. Show time!!

The performance followed a handful of renaissance-period costumed characters in an interlinked web of love, deceit and betrayal. The lead female, Marquise de Merteuil, left heartbroken by Gercourt, employed her cunning pal Valmont to seduce Cecile, Gercourt’s new lover. The end of the performance leaves all involved parties heartbroken while one of the male characters suffered an untimely death.

While I found the storyline a bit hard to follow at times, it was a night and experience I will never forget. And for less than US$50 we witnessed a ballet at a theater that is slightly younger than the United States itself.

 

Meeting up with an Old Friend
When Elizabeth brought this adventure to my attention last winter, my mind immediately thought back to Travis, a Canadian traveler I met in New Zealand. Through the magic of social media, I remembered that Travis settled down in Prague a few months after we parted ways in New Zealand. I quickly looked him up and it turned out he was still living there. I reached out to Travis and asked him for recommendations on things Elizabeth and I should experience in the city. He responded almost immediately with an extensive list.

Travis also indicated he was working third shift at a local hostel owned by two travelers he met a few years prior. It just so happened he was off of work the night Elizabeth and I went to see Valmont. Travis knew the location of the theater and agreed to meet us after for a beer.

It was close to 9:15 p.m. by the time the show ended and we descended from our seats in the belfry.   We entered the cool, mid-evening air and straight ahead stood someone leaning against the corner of building. “That’s Travis, right there!” I turned and told Elizabeth.

When we met in New Zealand, Travis had a beard that put mine to shame even at its longest. While it was considerably shorter now, he was still easy to pick out of a crowd. He stepped forward, we shook hands and I introduced him to Elizabeth. We made small talk for a few seconds and started walking. Travis mentioned the name of bar with live music he thought we would like. As we proceeded he pointed out certain places along the way. By that point Elizabeth and I covered those same streets for a few days but it was nice to have a pseudo-local tell us about this craft brewery or the history behind that statue.

We arrived at the RedRoom Music Bar and walked inside. The place was quiet save for a few others at a nearby table. We moved to the bar and Travis threw a sly wave to the girl behind the counter. He asked about the live music that was to be on offer and she indicated it was an open-mic night but no one was willing to brave the stage. Travis apologized to us and I indicated it was quite all right. I looked forward to catching up with Travis and was worried our conversation would be drowned out by a group of aspiring Prague teenagers. The music that wafted from the corner speakers was to my liking. We each ordered a beer and sat down at an empty table.

Conversation flowed easily for the next two hours or so. We hit on a wide-range of topics: travel, of course; cameras, jobs, Canada, the US. We talked about the Czech language and how Travis has fared at learning enough to get by. Elizabeth inquired into the transit system and if there is any control over ticket validation checkpoints in the metro stations. Travis began explaining and opened our eyes to just how lucky we had been up until that point. He explained that most locals have a monthly pass and that is who we saw stroll right past the checkpoints. If stopped, they retrieve their pass and are on their merry way. If we were stopped, without a pass or validated ticket, we would have to pay a USD$45 fine. As the saying goes, “it’s better to be lucky than good!”

After a few beers we parted ways. Travis was off to meet friends at a nearby bar and Elizabeth and I had to return to our hotel to finish packing for our onward journey the next morning. Travis indicated there was a tram stop just outside the RedRoom and with a cunning grin offered to help us navigate the ticket machine. He pressed the necessary buttons and slid a few coins into the slot. Out popped two tickets and we shook hands one final time. We agreed to keep in touch and hoped to cross paths again someday down the road. The tram doors closed behind us as Travis slid off into the night.

I have mentioned many times on this blog that museums, attractions, points of interest are well and good. However, the people that you meet along the way are what really make travelling special. Those nine-months of travelling around the world are seared into my memory, as are the many people I came into contact with during that time. You mutually agree to hopefully meet up again down the road but the longer time goes the less likely it is that reunion will occur. They become little more than memories that dot your past.

It would have been easy to not meet up with Travis while in Prague. Elizabeth and I had a busy itinerary. He works third shift and I know all-to-well what that schedule is like. But I could not pass up the opportunity to reunite with someone from such an important time in my life. I cannot thank Travis enough for the recommendations, hospitality and ice cold beer. While I don’t think he is a subscriber to PERPETUAL FOOTSTEPS, if he ever reads this I hope he knows the next beer is on me. Wherever that may be.

This trip through Prague and Budapest included airfare, accommodations, and transportation between the two cities. Europe has an extensive rail network and I assumed that would be our method of transport on that early Monday morning after we checked out of our hotel. However, it turned out to be a coach bus that picked us up at our hotel entrance and delivered us to our hotel in Budapest. The seven-hour ride included a few short breaks along with an hour lunch stop. Unbeknownst to us, everyone on the bus that morning had booked through the same company, Gate 1 Travel, and we were joined by Soma, a Gate 1 representative. As we travelled in a south-easterly direction through the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Hungary, Soma introduced himself and provided us useful information for our stay in Hungary. I made note of a few things; but was glad that we would be on our own once we arrived.

We pulled up to our hotel, Ibis Budapest Heroes Square, in the mid-afternoon and quickly made our way to the check-in counter. We were handed the key to room 116 and proceeded upstairs. We dropped our bags and looked at a map to see what we could explore for the remainder of the day. We noticed we were only two or three blocks from the nearest yellow-line metro station and Soma made it clear the transportation authorities in Budapest take their job very seriously. No skipping out on metro tickets in this city. I traced the yellow-line with my finger and realized it continued all the way to the Danube River. I threw my camera and a long sleeve shirt in my daypack and we set out to explore our final destination. The late afternoon sunshine settled on our skin and was a welcomed surprise from the chilly temperatures in Prague.

We turned right after leaving our hotel and walked to the Hősök Tere (Heroes Square) metro stop. During our quick walk, we passed by Heroes Square and only then did I realize just how close we were located to one of the main squares in all of Budapest. This iconic square was the location of many political events and is characterized by the numerous statues of historical significance along with the Hungarian Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. We crossed the street and entered the square. The afternoon crowds were out en masse and we agreed to come back at another time when the square would be quieter. We marched onward to the metro eager to take in all Budapest had to offer.

These are a few highlights/things we learned:

Jewish Quarter
We began our time in Budapest by exploring the Jewish Quarter. Our first stop was the Dohány Street Synagogue, the largest synagogue in Europe and the second largest in the world. Unfortunately, the synagogue was closed by the time we arrived and we were unable to make our way inside. We slowly walked around the outside taking in the architecture and bits of the interior courtyards viewable from the sidewalk. Constructed in the mid-19^th century, the primary architect believed that no overtly Jewish architecture be used and relied on architectural styles of other ethnic groups that are related to Israel. As a result, the synagogue was completed in the Moorish style and mimics those found in Northern Africa.

We walked the surrounding streets and passed by restaurant-after-restaurant
and bar-after-bar. Soma indicated on our earlier bus ride that the social scene in the Jewish Quarter has grown in recent years and it is a popular destination for those looking to celebrate any number of life’s milestones. I wonder if those who show up in the Jewish Quarter to imbibe realize the history behind the area on which their barstool rests. We turned one corner and came upon a memorial wall detailing the atrocities that overtook the Jewish Quarter during World War II.

In November 1944, the Hungarian National Government passed legislation that sectioned off a portion of the Jewish Quarter. This new area was surrounded by chain-linked fence and stonewalls and become the Jewish Ghetto.   Over 200,000 Jews were forced to move into the ghetto completely cut off from the outside world. Nazi troops, who started occupying the city in March 1944, patrolled the perimeter and ensured nothing entered and no one exited. Almost immediately, the number of Jews remaining in the ghetto declined. Thousands were transported to concentration camps in neighboring countries or brought to the banks of the Danube River where they were shot and killed before being dumped in the river. In January 1945, the ghetto was liberated by incoming Soviet troops and the population inside that few block radius had declined to 70,000 in only two months.

Dinner Cruise on the Danube
It just so happened that I celebrated my thirtieth birthday while in Europe. Elizabeth decided to surprise me with a three-course dinner aboard one of the many riverboats that traverse the Danube River. Early one evening we made our way to Pier 11 in the shadow of the Elisabeth Bridge and boarded our vessel. We were led up a flight of stairs and into a small room on the top deck that housed a dozen tables. Large windows lined both sides and provided magnificent views of the city. At the end of the room sat two baby grand pianos, one white and the other black. Additional patrons filed into the room and took their seats as a waiter came over and welcomed us each with a glass of champagne. Shortly after 7 p.m. the boat lurched and slowly pulled away from its berth.

The sun was sinking below the horizon as two, suited gentleman appeared from behind a curtain and sat at either piano. The sound of musical notes filled the room as waitresses took everyone’s order. We each selected goulash soup as an appetizer and I ordered fish for the main course while Elizabeth decided on the duck.

During my original stay in Budapest I remember gazing out over the Danube River seeing these two- and three- decked boats slowly drift in either direction. Here I found myself on one as we slowly worked our way past Buda Castle to our left and approached the grandiose Hungarian Parliament building on our right. For those unfamiliar, the Danube River bisects Budapest. Buda rises from the hills and elevated terraces on the rivers west bank and makes it the strategic home to Buda Castle. Pest lies on the flat terrain of the Danube’s east bank and gently fades into the distance.

Elizabeth leaned to the side and slid open the window behind our table. We pulled out our cameras and captured the Chain Bridge beginning to illuminate as it ushered in another romantic night in the nations capital. Our appetizers and entrees followed soon after as voices quieted to welcome the hostess/lounge singer who now stood between the two pianos with a microphone to her mouth. The vessel continued north until it passed just beyond the Parliament building before turning to the south in a wide arc.   Elizabeth ordered a second glass of champagne while I requested a glass of wine to pair with my entrée. My field of vision was pulled in many directions, from the plate of food sitting before me, to Elizabeth affectionately seated across from me, to the buildings and bridges lit so magnificently. Budapest, you’ve left me breathless yet again.

The boat proceeded south past its berth and puttered under the Elisabeth Bridge and continued onward. Our plates, now empty, were cleared as the singer drifted into the storyline of what transpired between the two pianists that led them to “duel”. Turns out it was a woman. And to settle the score they jostled back forth on the keys. After the two “enemies” buried the hatchet the singer indicated it was time for dessert. Trays were brought forth carrying small plates. A plate was set before Elizabeth and a scoop of vanilla ice cream sat adorned with whipped cream, a piece of chocolate and surrounded by raspberries. I waited for mine as the singer exclaimed that two patrons on board were celebrating birthdays. I looked at Elizabeth wide eyed as two larger plates were brought out each sporting a lit candle. The musicians broke into a quick rendition of “happy birthday” as a plate was set before me and the second was placed in front of a gentleman at a nearby table. Well at least I’m not the only one. Elizabeth snapped a few photographs as a smile snuck across my face.

I like to be completely honest on this blog. I freely admitted to you all when I was bitten by a dog in Laos due to my own stupidity and had to receive the first of who-remembers-how-many rabies shots at a provincial hospital in Luang Prabang. You were along for the ride when I assumed my flight from Belgium to Morocco departed from Brussels International Airport only to realize that I was at the wrong airport and missed said flight. Travel faux pas are unavoidable and I am far from infallible. After our dinner cruise, Elizabeth and I walked towards St. Stephens Basilica, which sits at one end of a large square dotted with bars, restaurants and my personal favorite – park benches. We took a seat and chit chatted while watching the nighttime revelry pass by. At one point I looked at my watch and realized there was a chance we would miss the last metro back to our hotel. We stood up and hustled through the square and crossed a few intersections. We descended the station staircase and were halted by a chain-linked gate. The station was closed. We missed it. Back on street level, we looked for an available cab as we walked in the direction of our hotel. As we walked and waved to every yellow taxi that passed, Soma’s words played in my mind…

“Beware of taxi cabs that aren’t adorned with an official company logo.

They are not official taxis and WILL rip you off. Avoid them at all costs.”

Sure enough the doors of the taxi that pulled up were logo-free. I would have to be extra careful about this driver I thought as we stepped inside. He pressed the meter and pulled away from the curb. The ride was not long. With stoplights it took fifteen minutes or so.   The meter read 15,000 Hungarian Forint. Or so I thought. I handed over 20,000 Forint. During my time in various foreign countries I grew accustomed to taxi drivers always telling me they never had change. No one. Ever. Had. Change. This taxi driver was not going to pull the same stunt. I demanded that he give me 100 Forint in return. He looked at me quizzically in the rearview mirror and handed it over. I exited the cab with a renewed sense of pride that the cabby cabal of Budapest did not pull a fast one on me. He sped off and soon after I was struck with fear. WHAT DID I JUST DO?

“How much was on the meter?” I asked Elizabeth.

“1,500 Forint.” (USD$5.86) “How much did you give him?” She responded.

I pulled out my wallet and stricken by fear, “20,000 Forint (USD$78). I thought the meter read 15,000 Forint (USD$58)”

No one is perfect. I had blown through most of the money that remained for our time in Budapest. I also realized that even my request for 100 Forint in return made no sense. If the fair was 15,000 Forint and I handed over 20,000 Forint, I should have demanded at least 1,000 Forint in return. He drove off with an 18,400 Forint (USD$71.85) tip. Well buddy, consider it your lucky night.

Szechenyi Bath
Sitting atop a scattering of 125 thermal springs, Budapest is home to over a dozen thermal baths heated naturally by the water that flows underground. I failed to make it to one of the baths on my visit in 2016 and was more than happy to partake this time around. On our last day in Budapest Elizabeth and I left our hotel and walked to the Szechenyi Baths, perhaps the most popular and surprisingly close to our hotel. We decided to arrive early as temperatures were forecasted to hit the mid-70s and we knew it would be a popular destination as the day progressed. We navigated the sprawling grounds and successfully purchased two entry passes. We were each given a blue wristband that allowed us to access a locker in each of the gender specific changing rooms. We switched into our bathing suits and walked into the center courtyard that houses three large pools- two for wading and a separate lap pool for swimming. Surrounding the three pools is the multi-storied, Neo-baroque yellow palace that we entered to purchase our passes. Construction was completed in 1913 and it has served locals and tourists ever since.

It was just after 9 a.m. and we easily found a lounge chair on which to lay our towels. We walked to the edge of the pool and dipped a toe in to test the waters. It was like bath water. The outer ring of the pool was dotted with large stone urns that were part flowerpot, part decorative water fountain. I stepped both feet into the water. To my left rested an elderly man, sporting an orange speedo that appeared to be enjoying a quick nap under the splashing water of a nearby flowerpot/fountain. This must be what retirement life in Budapest is all about. The social scene of local retirees was in full swing. We sat down and enjoyed all it had to offer. People came and went as the large display in the center of the terrace displayed increasing water and air temperatures. The elderly man next to me awoke from his slumber and made a quick exit as the morning progressed and the number of tourists increased. We drifted from our seated position into the pool and stretched our legs. Two others quickly swam over and took our spots. That is how it works at the Szechenyi Bath. We let the sun soak into our skin and the warm water lull us into an altered state of relaxation. I thought about what I would be doing 24 hours after that swim. I’d be on a plane back to the States and then back at work. Don’t make me leave.

 We waded for another 30 minutes or so before moving in to take the seats of another couple that decided to walk to the middle of the pool. I felt a slight sun burn overtaking my shoulders. I was comfortable with a minor burn knowing we did not have sunscreen and near freezing temperatures were hovering over New England. I’ll take it while I can get it. There were a few other things we wanted to accomplish on that last day in Budapest and we decided to grab a sandwich and beer from the nearby food stall before changing out of our swimsuits and heading back to the hotel.

Later that evening Elizabeth and I walked down to the banks of the Danube to gaze upon the skyline one last time. We were scheduled to depart early the following morning and neither of us knew when we would be lucky enough to soak in that skyline again. There were so many good memories made during the previous week and we sat along the quiet shores reciting our favorite moments. It was a spectacular eight days in Prague and Budapest and the highlights described above are but a few of many.

I was beyond excited when Elizabeth first posed the idea of this trip to me. Who would pass up an opportunity to visit two cities they love? Before departing for Europe, I had hoped Elizabeth would end up loving them as much as I do. I cannot speak for her but after seeing her joy and excitement while on the ground and the disappointment in her eyes as we turned our backs to the Budapest skyline that final night I am of firm belief that these two cities will forever hold a place in her heart.

I mentioned earlier in this piece that sit-down restaurants would take priority over eating grab-and-go food. While we had our fair share of nice dinners, there were times when the mood struck and we needed a little something from a street vendor.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next up, get Elizabeth fitted with a nice travel backpack…

 

To view additional photographs, please visit the following links:
Budapest
Prague