Day 29 – Milford Sound, New Zealand – 1:05 P

A short time ago I arrived at my accomodations in Milford Sound after a scenic three hour drive from Te Anau.  Te Anau is a popular starting point for many tours, cruises and expeditions that journey into the fiordlands of New Zealand.  Yesterday, I bussed from Queenstown to Te Anau.  Rather than continuing straight to Milford Sound, I spent one night in Te Anau at Rosie’s Backpacker hostel.  I arrived two hours before check-in and Rosie pointed out numerous things that could fill my free time.  I needed to buy groceries and she pointed out an affordable grocer and a scenic path along Lake Te Anau that snakes back into the center of town.  I made my way to the path and began walking.  The increased temperatures, towering mountains and expansive lake all drew my attention.  According to my bus driver, Lake Te Anau covers 132 square miles, making it the second largest lake in New Zealand.  It is truly a massive lake, unlike anything I have ever seen.  After collecting my cache of food, I slowly walked back to my hostel and was given access to my four-person shared room. Upon entering I saw one other backpack and three open beds.  I claimed a bed and began to sort through my things.  A short time later, the owner of the backpack arrived and we introduced ourselves.  She was a German girl who was concluding six weeks traveling around New Zealand.  Much like myself she quit her job and had no idea what she was going to do upon returning home.

Later that afternoon, on the recommendation of my Queenstown taxi driver, I walked to the Fiordland Cinema to watch a short film about the natural beauty found in southwestern New Zealand.  Cinematographers, with the assistance of renowned helicopter pilots in the region, filmed an abundance of landscapes, most untouched by man.  I was in awe at the waterfalls, snowcapped peaks and sheer cliff faces that dominated the screen.  The beauty displayed before me furthered my excitement about what awaited me in Milford Sound.

I departed Te Anau this morning at 10 am.  After exiting the city center, the landscapes re-emerged and continued for the entire journey.  Lake Te Anau and its shoreline mountains appeared more majestic then yesterday.  They were unmasked by clouds that shrouded them during my earlier walk.  As the miles ticked by, yellow and purple lupine appeared along the road and naturally drew my eye away from other stimuli.

Construction on Milford Road, the lone drivable route from Te Anau to Milford Sound, began in the 1920s.  Local government officials employed wayward males from dawn to dusk to clear trees, sledge hammer boulders and make a navigable path.  It took nearly thirty years for the road to be completed.  It officially opened to vehicular traffic in 1954. Prior to its completion, one venturing to Milford Sound needed to arrive by boat through the Tasman Sea, plane or foot.

The footpath that early New Zealanders relied on to reach Milford Sound is still very popular today among backpackers. Milford Track as it is known, is a 33 mile trail that leads trampers past cascading waterfalls and over majestic peaks. Reservations to embark on the Milford Track often sell out months in advance.

A short time later the bus driver announced we were about to enter Fiordland National Park.  Established in 1952, this national park is the largest in New Zealand, the twelfth largest in the world, and part of the Te Wahipounamu World Heritage Site.  Some have described it as the 8th wonder of the world.  Upon entering Fiordland National Park, you drive through a forest heavily populated with Beech Trees.  I was surprised to learn the slow growth rate of beech trees.  A trunk that you’re able to put your hand around might be 20 to 30 years old. While much larger trees may be hundreds of years old.

Prior to beginning this adventure, I booked two activities for Milford Sound.  Tomorrow, I will take part in a half-day guided hike on the Milford Track.  I cannot wait to take in the unique landscapes of this area while learning more about the national park.  The following day, I embark on a six hour kayak expedition on the waterways of Milford Sound.  From images I have viewed on the internet, it is not uncommon for dolphin and whales to swim alongside kayakers as they navigate the fiords.