Day 31 – Milford Sound, New Zealand – 1:00 p

The clear skies and calm winds that I envisioned and hoped for as I nodded off to sleep last night unfolded before me at 5:30 am this morning.  My 11 mile kayak excursion would not go the way of my canceled half-day guided hike.  I sprang from my bed, quickly threw on shorts and a t-shirt and pulled on my shoes.  My cameras were charged and waiting in dry bags.  I placed the dry bags in my day pack along with a sandwich and snacks for the day.  At 6:30 am, Ricky arrived at The Milford Lodge to transport me and a gentlemen originally from Moscow, but now living in North Carolina, to the water front.  On the short drive Ricky, of Rosco’s Milford Kayaks, informed us he would be our guide for the day.

We joined five others and walked into a small tent to prepare for our journey.  Ricky distributed polypropylene pants and shirts to serve as base layers.  Then he passed out fleece pullovers to keep us warm.  Next, we each picked a kayak spray skirt that started at your chest and mushroomed around your knees.  The bottom portion of the skirt forms a tight fit around the cockpit of the kayak and keeps water from entering.  Lastly, waterproof jackets were handed-out along with life-jackets and winter hats.

Four two-person kayaks awaited us at waters edge.  After pairing with the Russian-American I rode with this morning, we stepped in and made sure our spray skirts were properly situated.  In addition, I sat in the rear so I had to ensure my feet reached the paddles within the kayak.  These peddles turn the rudder thus steering the kayak.  With all the odds and ends complete we pushed off from the shore and our day officially begun.

It did not take long to get used to paddling while steering left or right.  After a couple minutes of getting comfortable on the water, we set off on the four hour journey to where Milford Sound meets the Tasman Sea.  Along the way, Ricky explained to us the history of Milford Sound along with numerous points of fact.  He pointed out the waterfall that appeared in the motion picture Wolverine with Hugh Jackman.  We also kayaked under the outcropping that a woman base jumped off for an advertisement of a major corporation.

Perhaps the one fact that interested me the most was that Milford Sound is not technically a sound, but a fiord. One of the many differences between a sound and fiord is how the original waterway was created.  A sound is carved out by a river while a fiord is formed by a glacier.  Milford Sound was carved out by a glacier millions of years ago, thus it is actually a fiord.  Each of the well known sounds in New Zealand: Milford Sound, Doubtful Sound, Sutherland Sound among others are technically fiords.  The government of New Zealand tried to remedy this situation by naming the park that encompasses the sounds Fiordland National Park.

At one point we kayaked within yards of a 150m waterfall.  The wind and spray that emanates from cascading water is truly remarkable.  We were only able to get so close until we were blown back.  According to Ricky, this particular waterfall is three times higher than Niagara Falls.  You do not truly grasp the size of the mountains and waterfalls and their power until they are compared to an American icon.

As we progressed through Milford Sound and neared the Tasman Sea the winds and swell increased.  It took a bit more effort to drive the paddles through the water and advance our kayak.  Any ground we gained was lost when we dug our cameras from our dry bags to capture the scenery lining the shores.  This happened quite often as clouds shifted and mountains that were hidden moments ago now appeared.

Milford Sound is a popular place for tourists to embark on a two hour scenic cruise.  There are numerous companies that advertise their services.  While a motored cruise will get you to the same mountains and waterfalls, a slow kayak journey through the same waterways gives you a more intimate look at your surroundings.  You are not moving as fast, thus less likely to miss a waterfall or towering peak.  Not to mention the sheer accomplishment of kayaking 11 miles prior to lunch.

We rounded one last corner on our journey and there ahead of us awaited our water taxi back to our point of departure. We pulled alongside, stepped from our kayaks to the boat and assisted as the kayaks were loaded onto the roof and gunwales.  We then sat back and enjoyed the thirty minute boat ride past the same mountains and waterfalls we meandered by earlier.

We pulled up to the boat launch and stepped ashore.  After removing our issued gear, we changed into dry clothes and bid each other adieu as we went our separate ways.  While it’s interesting to meet people from all over the world as I travel, these individuals are mere flashes in my memory.  They do not remain long enough to cause a lasting impression.  None the less, I am fascinated chatting with them and learning about their backgrounds, travel experiences and plans for the future.

 

*Additional pictures from Te Anau and Milford Sound are viewable within the New Zealand portfolio section found on the Perpetual Footsteps homepage.