Day 2 (Apollo Bay to Timboon via Bay of Islands)

I woke Tuesday morning feeling refreshed and surprised at how well I slept the previous night.  After breaking down camp we departed Apollo Bay and drove west.  I was eager to continue along the Great Ocean Road (GOR) and see the main points of interest that dot the route.  Our first stop was the Cape Otway Lighthouse, billed as the most historic lighthouse in Australia.  We parked the car and walked into the welcome center. There before us was a sign that advertised admittance for $20.  I could not bring myself to hand over $20 in order to walk to a lighthouse.  I’m sure the views were stunning but there will be plenty of free landscapes to photograph as my travels continue.  We turned around and continued on the GOR.

A short time later we pulled into the Twelve Apostles Welcome Center.  Beyond the Welcome Center the path forks.  The right fork will take you to the Twelve Apostles lookout.  We went left to the Gibson Steps.  This vantage point offered an easterly view of sheer cliffs that drop dramatically into the surging ocean.  It is something to behold from above but entirely different after descending the stairs and strolling along the beach.  The cliffs that you looked down on now towered above you in all their glory.  After walking along the beach and strategically snapping tourist-free photographs, we climbed back up the Gibson Steps and returned to the Welcome Center.  We followed the path to the Twelve Apostles lookout.  This westerly view offered the same sheer cliffs.  However, just off shore were massive limestone structures.  Walls of water surged in from afar, wrapped around them and continued towards shore.  One of the most photographed scenes along the GOR, the Twelve Apostles were formed by centuries of erosion. The wind swept seas formed caves in the cliffs. As time progressed, arches formed only to later collapse as the erosion progressed. Currently, only eight structures remain with the last collapsing in 2005. Unlike man-made structures that last for lifetimes, eventually each of the Twelve Apostles will crumble into the sea and the landscape will be forever altered.

After twenty minutes of staring in awe at the landscape splayed before us, we walked back to our vehicle. We pulled back onto the GOR and continued west. By now it was after 3:00 PM and our appetites were eager for nourishment. We proceeded onward into Port Campbell and stopped for lunch at Frying Nemo. A popular fish-and-chips establishment, Frying Nemo is a perfect example of why you should not judge a book by its cover. Sharing space with a gas station, I was a bit cautious when it was suggested we stop there for lunch.  I was informed Frying Nemo is a very popular local establishment and the food is worth it. I acquiesced and in we strolled. I ordered a fish-and-chips platter that included one large filet, two baked shrimp and a mountain of golden yellow fries. We gathered our lunches and took cover under a nearby umbrella. Greasy, beer battered fish and salted fries dipped in ketchup never tasted so delicious.

After eating, we gathered our beach towels and strolled to a nearby beach. We changed into our swimsuits and walked to the waters edge. The shock of the cold water running over my feet nearly turned me around. Onward I pushed, one step after the other into the oncoming surf. I continued up to my waist, took a deep breath and dove headfirst. As I swam underwater, the shock of the cold water gradually subsided and felt refreshing. I surfaced and took in the scene before me. Brave souls jumped off a nearby pier, paddle boarders meandered in all directions and children, resistant to the cold water, frolicked in the shore break. I walked out of the water and proceeded to my towel. As I soaked up unending rays of sunshine, we contemplated our itinerary for the rest of the day. It was after 5 PM and Port Fairy, my scheduled respite for the night was nearly two hours away.   We still had two places to stop, The London Arch and The Grotto. Ben mentioned he knew a family friend who lived in Timboon, 45 minutes north. Perhaps, we could camp at their house that night.

We returned to the car and Ben dialed his friend to inquire about camping on his lawn. He gave us the green light and our plan was finalized.   We pulled away from the curb and continued west to the London Arch and The Grotto. The London Arch, formerly known as The London Bridge, is a limestone arch structure just off the coast. At one time, the arch was connected to the mainland and thus resembled the London Bridge. In 1990, this land connection collapsed and the arch became separated from the coastline. Minutes up the road, we descended several flights of stairs to peer out into the vast ocean through The Grotto. This attraction, carved out by the ocean over hundreds of years provides the perfect opportunity to take in the size and scale of the cliffs that fall from the GOR into the raging ocean. The ground we traversed was pockmarked with holes that are established when ocean water grinds rocks down into its surface.

Following our visit to the London Arch and Grotto, we drove another thirty minutes west to the Bay of Islands. Our intention was to watch the sun set over the ocean. We arrived and there was not a soul in sight. Rarely do you pull into a parking lot of a lookout or attraction and find it vacant. I grabbed my cameras and we walked towards the overlook. The scene that appeared before was breathtaking. Large limestone structures rose from the ocean and provided the perfect backdrop for the approaching sunset. There was not a cloud in the sky and the large, red, perfectly round fireball descended into the horizon. Its orange reflection bounced off the ocean and provided a wonderful opportunity to practice silhouetting techniques. As the sun sank beneath the horizon, the reds and oranges that contrasted the darkening sky was something I never witnessed before. Shortly after 9:30 PM, we pulled back onto the GOR and headed for Timboon, our waiting accommodation for the night.